I’ve never had full-blown acne, although my face was never without a spot or two throughout most of my teens. These were always around the nose, upper lip, and chin. It was at about 18 or 19 that I began to experiment with moisturizers, which is when the pimples stopped. Correlation or causation?
Now, as a mature man, I get fewer pimples on my face and more on my body, especially in my armpits, which I’ve managed to stop in a completely different way.
And I’d always had blackheads around my nose until I began a treatment for broken capillaries during my late 40s.
Is it Acne or Just Spots?
According to the website of the UK’s National Health Service (NHS):
The severity of acne is often categorised as:
- mild – mostly whiteheads and blackheads, with a few papules and pustules
- moderate – more widespread whiteheads and blackheads, with many papules and pustules
- severe – lots of large, painful papules, pustules, nodules or cysts; you might also have some scarring
For mild acne, you should speak to a pharmacist for advice. For moderate or severe acne, speak to a GP.
Judging by this, I’d say that my type of acne has always been less than mild. In fact, I wouldn’t refer to it as acne at all, but as “having a few spots.”
What Causes Pimples?
An excess of androgenic (male) hormones prompts an increase in sebum production, which blocks the follicular glands (pores). As a result, sebum, dead skin cells, and bacteria build up to form pimples.
Hormonal changes are the main cause of pimples. In men, this can be a result of puberty and/or stress.
Pubescent acne is properly called acne vulgaris. If the condition reoccurs later in life or extends beyond puberty, it’s called acne tarda.
How to Prevent Pimples
Cleansing
This is a no-brainer.
If you’re prone to pimples, you must keep affected areas as clean as possible. But not with soap, since this only exacerbates the condition.
Try a mild, soap-free wash emulsion formulated for acne-prone skin. Check product ingredients for tea tree oil or benzoyl peroxide. These prevent the growth of bacteria and thus the spread of pimples. This is what I used as a teenager, and it could be the reason why my acne was never more than a few spots. My preferred brand was Clearasil.
As a mature man, I’ve managed to stop pimples appearing in my armpits with a no-name facewash containing salicylic acid and zinc oxide.
This prevents pimples and warts, as well as reducing body odor.
Moisturizing
Throughout most of my teens, I did all I could to reduce sebum production. In other words, I tried to dry my skin out. But this only worsens the problem.
Cleansers and astringents formulated to treat acne tend to strip the skin of its natural barrier. To compensate, it produces more sebum, which causes more congested pores and more spots.
Cleanse no more than twice a day. Avoid astringents and aftershave; toners for sensitive skin will get rid of cleansing and shaving debris without causing dryness. And apply moisturizer.
Oil-free moisturizers for acne-prone skin may seem the most obvious option, but a noncomedogenic, fragrance-free product for sensitive skin is what worked for me.
Noncomedogenic, by the way, means the product won’t clog pores nor exacerbate acne.
Source: The Neat and Tidy ManMasks and Exfoliation
Clay or Mud Masks
Applying a clay or mud mask once or twice a week will not only draw out impurities and minimize blackheads; it will leave your face feeling relaxed and comfortable.
Exfoliation
Exfoliate to unclog pores.
When I was a teenager, the idea of exfoliation was just becoming a thing.
At the time, I only knew about scrubs. Rather than buying one with the little money I earned from my paper route, I mixed baking soda with my wash lotion, which seemed to help.
But better would have been a chemical peel. Try The Ordinary’s AHA 30% BHA 2% Peeling Solution, containing glycolic, lactic, tartaric, citric, and salicylic acids.
Or, if you’re on a tight budget, you may get good results with organic apple cider vinegar. This contains malic acid, which is an alpha hydroxy acid, and can be used in place of toner. Dilute to a ratio of 1-to-1 with distilled or flat mineral water.
Retinoids
A doctor isn’t going to prescribe retinoids for very mild acne. But, in some countries, you can get adapalene in the form of Differin over the counter.
Retinoids are a synthetic form of vitamin A. Applied topically, they increase cell turnover, remove dead cells, and disperse blockages.
When I was in my late forties, a dermatologist prescribed the retinoid Tretinoin to reduce the appearance of broken capillaries on my nose. Because it increases cell turnover, it thickens the skin in order that the capillaries become less visible.
A nice side effect was the disappearance of the blackheads around my nostrils. Retinoids also work against photoaging, so the fine lines around my eyes vanished, too.
Stop Pimples with Shaving Oil
I started shaving at 13 and noticed an immediate increase in pimples. Especially in the chin and upper lip areas.
At 15 I was able to grow a pretty substantial mustache, which partially solved the problem. But the rest of my facial hair was still too sparse to be of any help.
The problem was shaving soap, which always exacerbates acne. But lathering up like my dad was the fun part of the process, and nothing was going to stop me. Apart from that, I considered dry shaving less hygienic.
I’d have saved myself a lot of trouble had I known about shaving oil. This forms a barrier between the shaving soap and the skin.
There’s no need to buy a product labeled “shaving oil.” Noncomedogenic jojoba will do the job just as well.
Simply massage into the beard area before lathering up.
Source: The Neat and Tidy ManHow to Camouflage Pimples
Being obsessed with my appearance as a teenager, I was always well turned out: my hair and mustache neatly trimmed; my clothes freshly laundered and pressed to perfection; my shoes polished to a mirror sheen; and at least one spot on my nose or chin to ruin the entire look.
If you can’t stop a pimple, the only thing to do is cover it up. Or at least try to make it less obvious.
So what are the possibilities for men?
Cover Pimples with Concealer
I’ll tell you about this option, but I don’t agree with it.
As a man, I would never be seen to wear makeup; concealer is nothing more than a very dense foundation that comes in the form of a solid stick or as a liquid.
Although some concealers are marketed specifically for men, the fact remains that any product opaque enough to cover pimples will be visible for all to see, especially in the sun or under bright lights.
On the other hand, it may be suitable for a night out—just make sure nobody is looking at your face while visiting the harshly lit bathroom.
What Type of Concealer?
Medicated concealers may seem like a good idea, but they tend to be dry textured and leave a flaky finish. Better are dense, creamy products. Although such concealers are not medicated, they are usually noncomedogenic.
Always choose a shade that matches your skin tone exactly. Too light will highlight pimples, and too dark won’t cover them at all; it will only change their color.
How to Apply Concealer
Using a concealer brush or your little finger, dab the smallest possible amount onto the pimple so as any redness disappears. To leave an inconspicuous matte finish, apply a little powder with a cotton pad. Cornstarch will also do the trick.
If using, wash your concealer brush with a mild shampoo after every use to prevent the spread of bacteria. Brushes can take a while to dry completely, so you might want to invest in two or three, depending on how often you reapply throughout the day.
Liquid products come with their own brush.
Powder for the T-Zone
As with concealers, there are face powders marketed specifically for men, as well as medicated products intended for both sexes.
Powder takes the oily sheen off acne-prone skin, especially in the so-called t-zone (the forehead, nose, and chin). Use a loose, noncomedogenic product applied with a cotton pad. This hygienically serves as a disposable applicator and actually works better on problem skin than other application tools.
As a teenager, I used cornstarch to counteract shine since it is completely invisible on the skin.
Blotting Papers
But best for men are blotting papers.
These leave the skin with no visible trace of powder and, because of their handy size, can be slipped into a trouser pocket and used throughout the day.
Counteract Redness with Color Corrector
Neutralize redness with a green color corrector, sometimes referred to as “green concealer.”
It won’t camouflage pimples, but it will make them seem less inflamed.
Apply only a small amount. If it makes you appear green, you’ve used too much.
What You Should Never Do to Stop Pimples
Whatever you do to keep pimples at bay, don’t pick. Picking and squeezing result in scarring, which is far more difficult to get rid of than a spot or two.
© 2024, J. Richardson. All rights reserved.
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