It doesn’t have to be coarse, wiry and unmanageable. But to look good, men’s gray hair needs a lot of care. From shampooing and conditioning to cutting and styling, this is how it’s done.
Why Is Your Hair Gray?
Stress, genetic factors, and/or aging can trigger the depletion of cells called melanocytes, which are found in the hair bulb.
These are responsible for melanin production, the substance that gives hair its color.
The less melanin we produce, the lighter the hair becomes, causing it to fade to gray, and then white.
But loss of color is not the only problem caused by this process.
Why Is Your Hair Coarse and Wiry?
When the hair loses melanin, it not only loses its source of color but a protective barrier, too.
Melanin enables the hair to resist damage from UV rays, heat, humidity, and chemicals, while lending smoothness and density.
Without it, the hair becomes fine, porous, and vulnerable. And although porous hair absorbs moisture well, it loses it just as easily. As a result, it becomes dry, frizzy, and fragile.
To make matters worse, as we age, the scalp produces less sebum, which is another protective barrier. This results in further dryness and vulnerability.
Hair Care Products for Men’s Gray Hair
Shampoos
To keep gray hair looking smooth, shiny, and vibrant, you need more than one shampoo.
It’s also important that you don’t wash your hair with hot water. This will only strip it of its natural oils, which you want to preserve. Keep it lukewarm or (better still) cold in order that the cuticle remains closed for a smoother, healthier appearance.
You may also try shampooing less frequently, although freshly washed hair obviously appears brighter and shinier.
Sulfate-Free Shampoo
For daily use, a sulfate-free product won’t rob gray hair of whatever moisture it is able to retain.
The downside of such shampoos is that residue from styling and conditioning products will build up on the hair, causing it to become dull and flat. But there is a solution to this; more on that in a moment.
Purple Shampoo
A so-called purple shampoo once or twice a week will counteract yellow tones and add vibrancy.
Yellowing is caused by UV rays from which gray hair has little or no protection. Whether advertised for blonde, silver, white, or gray hair, these shampoos all do the same job.
Purple shampoos are also suitable for beards and mustaches. Otherwise, always use products that are intended specifically for facial hair.
Clarifying Shampoo
To remove chemical and product buildup, use a clarifying shampoo once a week.
Buildup can make the hair heavy and difficult to style while causing dryness, breakage, and split ends if left too long.
Your hair will obviously be more absorbent after a clarifying treatment, so do this a day before applying your purple shampoo for optimal color correction.
The hair will also be able to soak up conditioners more readily, making it less wiry and more manageable.
Source: PixabayConditioners
Deep Moisturizing Treatments, aka Hair Masks
If your hair is very dry, apply a deep moisturizing mask once a week directly after your clarifying treatment. This can also be a purple product if you’re prone to yellowing, which could save you having to use a purple shampoo.
Follow up with a regular conditioner that doesn’t weigh the hair down. Panthenol is a good, lightweight ingredient.
Regular Conditioners
Regular conditioners are important since they seal the hair to prevent moisture loss—remember, gray hair is porous. This is why you should apply it even after a deep conditioning treatment, which differs from regular conditioners in that it does not seal the hair.
For each of your shampoos, you can buy its coordinating conditioner. Or experiment, depending on your specific needs.
Caution
Never let a conditioning product sit in the hair for longer than recommended. Doing so will lead to dryness due to the heavy residue it will deposit.
Leave-In Conditioners
Leave-in conditioning sprays boost shine and manageability, but only if they’re not too heavy. In this case, they will weigh the hair down.
Oils and Serums
A huge problem with gray hair is its lackluster appearance; hair without melanin is less reflective. Finishing treatments containing oil will keep the hair smooth and shiny, as well as acting as an additional sealant.
Argan Oil
As oils go, argan is very light and won’t leave the hair feeling greasy. Rub a couple of drops into the palms of your hands and spread over wet or dry hair before combing through.
Serums
Alternatively, there are many serums available to smooth frizz. One I’d recommend is Touch of Silver, a lightweight purple product by Provoke. There’s also a corresponding shampoo, conditioner, and hair mask. This line is very reasonably priced, so it’s worth a try before moving on to more expensive products.
For fine hair that tends to appear limp, apply silicone-free products only.
Styling and Styling Products that Care for Men’s Gray Hair
Stay Heat Free
If possible, get a haircut that doesn’t need blow-drying, since this only robs the hair of essential moisture.
If it can’t be helped, apply a protective blow-dry lotion beforehand. But the less heat you use, the less you’ll have to mess around with conditioning treatments.
Heat-Free Volume
For more volume without blow-drying:
- Wait until your hair is only slightly damp, then apply styling mousse—there are products for dry and gray hair.
- Comb into position and allow to set.
- Tease the hair into style with a wide-tooth comb.
Another air-drying trick:
- Go to bed with damp hair.
- Apply a minimal amount of mousse in the morning when your hair is dry.
- Allow the mousse to partially set.
- Carefully tease into shape with a wide-tooth comb.
- Comb again when the hair is completely dry.
Vary and experiment with these methods until you find what works best for you.
Fixing, Styling, and Finishing Products
Pre-stylers and Hair Fixing Products
Due to their alcohol content, many pre-stylers and fixing products that make the hair stay in place have a drying effect, so select carefully. Look for mousses, setting lotions, and hairsprays etc. that don’t contain alcohol. There’s a great choice online.
Styling and Finishing Products
When caring for men’s gray hair, we want to achieve shine and reflexes, thus preventing a lackluster appearance. Therefore, the use of matte styling products would be counterproductive. Although they’d lend fine, gray hair more volume, the effect would be dull rather than casual and effortless, as in the surfer look.
There are, however, clays and pastes that give some shine while creating texture and body. Try one of these instead.
If your hair is easily weighed down, avoid silicone- and oil-based products. Wax would also be too heavy and can have a drying effect.
Hard-setting gels will make fine hair appear sparse.
Source: PixabayThe Right Haircut
If you think that gray hair will make you look old, try a shorter cut. This will give you an instant, optical lift.
Gray hair needs texture and movement, so go for a layered style, keeping it very short at the sides and back; either tapered or a fade.
Think in terms of the classic crew cut.
If you’d prefer to keep your hair longer, you’ll need long layers that prevent it from appearing flat on top. This will also need a lot of care since the lengths will be more fragile and prone to damage.
Whether long or short, have your hair trimmed once every four to six weeks. Getting rid of split ends will make it appear thicker and healthier.
Dye or Let Nature Take its Course?
After a certain age, it’s difficult to make dyed hair appear natural. So most of us end up opting for gray at some point. This, however, is by no means a liberation.
Caring for men’s gray hair and making it look good is as much of a chore as keeping gray hair at bay.
Although both options are about appearance, maintaining gray is mostly about hair health, whereas dyeing is not.
The former is therefore the more sensible choice, but only if you’re ready for it.
© 2024, J. Richardson. All rights reserved.
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