How to Look Good in a Suit

Can you look your best in an off-the-rack suit?

Only once have I invested in a tailored suit, and to be honest, the little difference it made to my overall appearance wasn’t worth the extra cost.

Therefore, my answer is yes; an off-the-rack suit will serve you just as well, provided you know what to look for.

Choosing the Right Suit

Most men don’t wear a suit to feel comfortable, but to create a positive impression or communicate respect.

It is usually needed for an important event like a job interview, a wedding, a funeral, or a date. Some wear one regularly to their chosen place of worship, others on a daily basis for work, although this is less likely since the advent of casual office attire.

So, most of us wear a suit only when it’s called for, which is when we need to look our best.

The first step in achieving this is by choosing the right suit; one that complements your body type, fits well, and is appropriate for its intended purpose.

Any Body Type Can Look Good in a Suit

Patterns and Fashion Details

Patterns and certain fashion details can optically affect proportion, either positively or negatively.

Vertically inclined patterns like herringbone and pinstripes have a slimming effect and add to both torso and leg length. This is advantageous if you’re heavy-set or somewhat on the short side, but not if you’re tall and lean.

Plaid motifs are not a good idea for stocky, overweight, or portly men. Choose instead solid, dark colors. These have a slimming effect, as do double-breasted jackets (two rows of buttons at the front), which make the torso appear more tapered. This is ideal if you want to optically minimize a paunch.

If it’s going to be your only suit, it’s best to avoid bold patterns. Very subtle designs and solid, neutral colors are more versatile; they are easily accessorized and can be worn for almost any occasion.

The Break

The break refers to the bend or kink at the bottom of the trouser crease that results from the hem resting on the shoe. The degree of the break determines how proportionate your legs will appear. There are three choices; the half-break, the full-break, and no break:

Half-break: In classic suit design, the half-break is customary (see photo below). It’s ideal for men of average build and for short men.
Full-break: The full-break—which requires a longer trouser length—is recommended for very tall men. However, if you’re planning on cuffed trousers, choose a half-break instead. Cuffs, by the way, optically reduce leg length and should be avoided by short men.
No break: No break is when the hem hardly touches the shoe. This should be worn only by men of average build or shorter, and only when fashion calls for it.

The bottom half of men's suit trousers, illustrating the break. — The half-break.

Choice of Color

Choose Charcoal Gray or Black If It’s Your Only Suit

If it’s going to be your only suit, charcoal gray and black are wise choices. These are suitable for practically all occasions and work as a versatile base color when adding accessories, etc.

Choose Dark Blue to Create a Powerful First Impression

Because it matches fewer colors, dark blue is not as versatile as black and gray when accessorizing, but it works well for job interviews. Navy in particular is known to convey an impression of authority, trustworthiness, intelligence, commitment, and professionalism, which could enhance your chances of success.

Depending on cut and fabric, navy may be less fitting for social events, whether formal or casual, but midnight blue is a great alternative to black for evening wear.

Mix and Match

Create Three or More Outfits From Two Suits

If you have to wear a suit daily, purchase two; one in solid mid-gray and another in black. You can then create three outfits by wearing the black jacket as you would a blazer with the gray trousers.

Before combining suits in this way, make sure the black jacket can pass as a blazer; it should be plain and relatively lightweight.

You can also add a contrasting vest or fine knit, V-neck cardigan. Or you can wear a cardigan in place of the jacket.

Mix Sizes of the Same Suit

My leg and torso sizes do not correspond exactly. It’s a difference of one number, so the trousers always had to be let in. That was until I visited Continental Europe and discovered C&A’s range of mix-and-match suits. This enables you to mix different designs, or combine two sizes of the same suit for a perfect fit.

Let me know in the comments if you know of other stores offering this invaluable service.

Choice of Cloth

Pure Wool

Pure wool is a good choice if you have to wear a suit daily. It’s more durable than other fabrics, meaning the suit won’t need to go to the cleaners quite as often. Suits generally need cleaning not because they’re soiled but because they become limp; sizing, which is part of the dry-cleaning process, restores body to the fabric.

Wool comes in various weights. Choose one that is suitable for all seasons if it’s your only suit. For a northwestern European climate, for example, you might consider a weight of 10 or 12 oz.

Wool fineness determines texture and price. This is indicated by the so-called “S” number, which ranges from 80 to 250; the higher the number, the finer the yarn.

Wool Silk Blend

A wool silk blend or similar (synthetic) with only a slight sheen is suitable for most occasions and accentuates style; silk and silk blends are commonplace in the sleek tailoring of Italian design.

Cotton and Linen

Cotton and linen should generally be reserved for casual wear. The disadvantage of these fabrics is that they crease easily, especially linen.

Suit jackets of various patterns, colors and fabrics on hangers. — Pattern, color and cloth: three important factors to consider before choosing a suit.

Choice of Lapels

There are three lapel types: notched, peaked, and shawl. Fashion dictates width and length, but basic shape remains constant.

Notched

Notched lapels, the type a business suit has, are the best choice if you want your suit to be versatile.

Peaked

Peaked lapels are always appropriate on a tuxedo, but—depending on design, color, and fabric—may be far too dressy for the office unless it’s a double-breasted jacket.

Shawl

Shawl lapels are only found on a tuxedo or white dinner jacket. By the way, the tuxedo is an extravagant-looking ensemble that will make you appear overdressed and out of place if the occasion doesn’t call for it. Wear only if an invitation states black tie.

A man wearing a gray suit jacket with notched lapels. — Notched lapels are a wise choice if you want a suit to be versatile.

How to Know If a Suit Fits Properly

If you are to look and feel your very best when wearing a suit, it must be well-fitting. When trying on an off-the-rack suit, check for the following:

Armholes should allow free movement. Don’t purchase if they bind, since this is impossible for a tailor to fix.
Shoulder pads should be form-fitting and slope downwards. They should never extend beyond your natural shoulder width.
When you stand up, a quarter of an inch of the back of your shirt collar should be visible above your suit jacket.
When your hands are at your sides, your jacket sleeves should be short enough (but no shorter) to allow about half an inch of your shirt cuffs to show.
When buttoned up, the jacket should fit snugly around your middle without straining or accentuating bulges.
The jacket length should end at the tops of your legs at the back—the length is correct if you can grab the hem of the jacket when your hands are at your sides.
Your vest should be long enough to cover the waistband of your trousers.
Your trousers should be long enough to rest on your shoes—to what extent depends on the chosen break; see above under the heading “A Suit for Your Body Type.”

If you don’t find an off-the-rack suit that fits well, some menswear retailers have a tailoring service that can alter a suit to a near-perfect fit.

Look Good in a Properly Accessorized Suit

A well-fitting, tastefully chosen suit can make a man appear authoritative, experienced, and professional, but only if it’s appropriately accessorized.

Your Shirt

If unsure about shirt color, you can never go wrong with solid white.
Always wear a long-sleeved shirt. The cuffs should end slightly above the base of the thumb.
If your middle finger fits between your neck and collar when the shirt is fastened, you’re wearing the right shirt size.

Your Necktie and Pocket Square

Fasten your tie so that it’s just long enough to touch your belt buckle.
Make sure the pattern and color of your necktie correspond not only with your shirt but with your suit too.
Avoid neckties with jokey or novelty motifs like cartoon characters or famous landmarks of places you might have visited. College stripes and club emblems, etc. should also be avoided. If unsure, choose a solid color.
Except for job interviews, by all means stuff a handkerchief (pocket square) casually into your top pocket, but it should coordinate with your shirt and not your necktie. There’s no need to fold it into a perfect square.

Jewelry, Shoes, and Other Accessories

Your only jewelry when wearing a suit should be your wristwatch, signet ring, tie clip, cuff links, and belt buckle, which should all match one another—e.g., silver with silver, gold with gold. Again, avoid jokey or novelty motifs.
Your shoes, socks, belt leather, and watch strap should also match one another. Choose black if you wear a gray, black, or navy suit. Plain black socks are a better choice than patterned.
The purpose of a belt when wearing a suit should be to fill your belt loops and not to keep your trousers up.
If wearing braces (suspenders), do not wear a belt.
Wear properly polished leather shoes of a relatively plain design. Brogues are inappropriate.

A pair of black shoes with stretchers, and a white shirt with a knotted, purple striped tie. — You can never go wrong with a solid white shirt.

How to Wear a Suit in a Dignified Manner

You may feel awkward, stiff, and self-conscious the first time you wear a suit. If so, practice wearing it before the big event until you feel relaxed and confident.

As a matter of etiquette, never put your hands in your jacket pockets, and leave your jacket on throughout a formal event.

When to fasten and unfasten buttons is also a matter of etiquette rather than personal choice:

Never fasten the bottom button of your jacket.
Unfasten your jacket when sitting down.
Keep your vest buttons fastened at all times when wearing as part of a three-piece suit.

Different rules apply, however, for the double-breasted jacket. This you should keep fastened at all times, even when sitting down, and you can fasten the bottom button.

Making Your Suit Last

If you want to look good in your suit for years to come, you’ll need to treat it well. Assuming you’re not wearing it daily, you’ll ideally dispose of it because it’s dated rather than worn out.

Care Tips

Do not dry clean more than four times a year. Using a soft cloth dampened with mild detergent, spot clean to remove spills and stains.
Get rid of odors with a steamer. Alternatively, hang the suit outside or in a steamy bathroom.
If your suit needs pressing, the cleaners can do this without actually cleaning it.
Brush down your suit before hanging to rid it of dust and other possible debris.
Hang on a broad wooden hanger to properly support the shoulders.
Allow your suit to rest for at least 24 hours so that it can regain its shape.
Do not squeeze a suit between other garments. Make sure it has plenty of space.
Use a garment bag to protect from dust and prevent wrinkling during travel.
Never overstuff pockets.

When to Invest in a Suit

In spite of what fashion experts seem to be telling us, it is not necessary for every man to own at least one suit at all times. If I didn’t attend my chosen place of worship each week, I wouldn’t need mine more than once every ten years or so. It would languish in my closet until it was out of style?

Dated garments (especially suits) do not make us look our best, so buy only when needed. You may end up wearing it no more than once, anyway.

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